28.02.08 Arrival

La Paz's airport is in El Alto, remarkably this town is even above La Paz and stepping off the plane we walked past half a dozen oxygen tanks with masks attached to treat those who cannot breathe unaided at the altitude.
At the carousel, it became clear that Miami airport must have something going for it because all of our luggage had decided to stay. Unencumbered by our belongings, we were collected by Susi’s colleague Fiona. The drive through El Alto was an obstacle course past beeping cars, roaming dogs and careless pedestrians (real ladies in bowler hats, worn high and at a coquettish angle, gasp!), which are strewn around the potholed (this does not give their size credit), rubbish-covered streets. In short, not pretty.
However, once the nose of Fiona’s 4x4 peaked over the plateau, the view was incredible. The vast, vertical-sided, rock-walled bowl that contains La Paz opened up before us. Occasionally, we would have glimpses of the snow-covered peak of the magnificent Mount Illimani in the distance. Everywhere else was rock with buildings perched unconvincingly on it.
We had made it.